The only noteworthy item today was the amount of force that it took to get J1 (the microphone jack), at the lower left corner of the board, properly seated.
In case you're wondering, assembly instructions start on page 14 and run through page 83.
In which I keep track of my progress building the Elecraft K2, KPA100, and other kits ...
The only noteworthy item today was the amount of force that it took to get J1 (the microphone jack), at the lower left corner of the board, properly seated.
In case you're wondering, assembly instructions start on page 14 and run through page 83.
I was away for a week at Pinewoods, and am still recovering from a week's worth of not enough sleep. However, I managed to turn on the soldering iron this evening and stuffed a few components, including the 40 pin socket for U1 on the bottom side of the board.
Hope to make more progress tomorrow.
I've completed construction of the control board, including scanning the bottom side of the board for shorts, cold solder joints, etc., as well as doing all the short testing recommended in the chart on the last page of the control board chapter.
The last two components to be mounted on the board are the two capacitors which comprise the keying shaping add-on to the board. It took quite a while to get C46 in particular situated on the board, so I thought it would be interesting to document how this came out:
|
The actual component for C46 was quite a bit larger than depicted in Figure 4-11, so the insulation bits needed to be a little shorter, and the leads needed to bent more squared off then in the figure.
Finally, I'm happy to report that I had installed RP2 correctly. Apparently, I'm the first person to ever write to Elecraft support after finding Figure 4-11 confusing WRT RP2 placement. Many thanks to Gary at Elecraft for helping me out with this today!
The other thing that held me up today was the pictorial of the underside of the board where these two capacitors are to be installed. If you have a look at the top right corner of the board, you can see the resistor network RP2 installed in its rectangular outline on the board. Just to the left is a round solder pad with the ambiguous marking "1". The pictorial of the underside of the board implies that that is where RP2's pin 1 should go. I think the marking on top of the board is most likely correct and the pictorial probably represents some older rev. of the board, but I wrote to Elecraft for clarification.
Despite all the dire warnings in the manual, installing the off-board connecting plugs was really pretty straightforward. The only one which was slightly tricky was P1, since it would be possible to install it such that pins were not parallel to the board. However, once I got it seated correctly, I used an alligator clip to hold it in place and then soldered it in. The two-row plugs seated pretty much seated themselves.
P5 and P6 came with warnings about soldering each pin less than 3 seconds each, so as not to melt the plastic shells. I just made sure the soldering tip was really clean before I did the soldering and it really wasn't a problem. Maybe Elecraft can think about supplying plugs not so susceptible to heat damage.
Looks like one more stuffing session should finish up this board ... I'll post a picture when it's completed.
I had a good working session today, during which I installed all the transistors on the control board, as well some voltage regulators, crystals, and a socket for the PIC CPU for this board. Starting with this post, you can click on these small pictures to get the big view.
The other thing I did today was rig up a grounding clamp on a local cold water pipe, ran a piece of antenna wire down from it, and clipped my wrist grounding strap to the wire. Hopefully, this is an adequate grounding scheme. In any case, I kept the wrist strip on while handling all the transistors, etc., today.