KAT100 almost completed

Two very good build sessions have brought the KAT100 project pretty close to completion.

	Here's a detail of the completed front panel board. Using the slow-but-sure approach, and carefully following the instructions, it was actually pretty easy to get the LEDs lined up.
	Here are the RF board and the front panel board bolted together for the first time.
	Here's a detail of the bottom view of the RF board and front panel board bolted together. When assembling the K2 and the KSB2, you had to be very careful in mounting the various multi-pin connectors so that the PC board connectors would properly seat. Here, you just plug J101 into P5 unsoldered, bolt the two boards together, and then do all the soldering. It was easy.
	Here's a detail of the RF-in line threaded through T1. Came out pretty good, but it would have been easier to thread it through before screwing the back panel on.
	Here's a view of the almost completed KAT100. By the way, although the instructions say that the side panels have a finished side and a "lightly painted", i.e., in-side, as shipped, both sides were actually finished; I used a drill-mounted wire brush to scrape off the paint.

What remains to be built are the K2-to-KAT100 communications cable and the power cable, to be followed by alignment, test, and (hopefully, with no glitches) putting the new KAT100 on-line.

Doing the toroids

I have completed installing all the toroidal components. I had wound L1 to L6 while waiting for those missing capacitors to arrive at the beginning of the build. Then, I wound L7 and L8 in sequence.

	Here are L1 to L8, ready for tinning and installation.
	Here are L1 to L8 installed on the main board. It's worth noting that it took a lot of heat and a lot of solder and a larger tip to successfully heat-strip the #20 wire. I always like to use some very fine grit sand paper on the leads after heat-stripping and before installation.

Winding and installing RFC2 and T1 completed construction of the main board. Back to the small tip for heat-stripping the #26 wire.

	Here is a detail of RFC2 installed.
	Here is a detail of T1 installed. You can also get a good view of D1 and D2 as well as C31 (mentioned in an earlier post).
	I wrapped up today's session by getting started on the front panel board. The next step is to install all the front panel LEDs and I want to be fresh for that.

Two sessions ... and RFC1 and D1/D2

I had two good build sessions, one yesterday and one today. This post will show two progress views and two build details that I thought were worth documenting. First, the progress views:

	Here's the main board at the conclusion of yesterday's build session.
	Here's the main board at the conclusion of today's build session.

Yesterday's build session encountered the only two somewhat tricky part insertions so far.

	The leads to D1 and D2 need to be bent to 90° right at the body of the diode. Even bending the leads really close to the body, I was unable to get the diodes to sit totally flat again the board (although I got it pretty close).
	The instructions for mounting RFC1 read "[the choke] has very fragile leads. Do not pull them." It goes on to warn again excessive soldering time. Well, RFC1's length exceeds the spacing for its mounting holes. I didn't attempt to get the part really close to the board. The picture shows my mounting solution.

Next ... two more toroids to wind, tin all the leads, and move on to mounting L1 to L8.

Resistors and capacitors and C31

The 7 missing capacitors arrived in the mail yesterday (thumbs up to Elecraft parts folks and the USPS!) and I got back to soldering last night.

The main board is now populated with all its capacitors and all its resistors (with the exception of one resistor on the bottom of the board to be inserted first the next time I fire up the soldering iron). This board sure is spacious!

The directions for inserting C31 read "Orient the flat side of the trimmer as indicated." The indication on the board was clear enough, but, judging from the shape of the part, I wasn't sure which side was the "flat side." Fortunately, Google image search came up with a recent (2010) hi-res picture of the KAT100 main board that clearly showed how C31 (same form factor) was mounted. This detail shows the result.

While waiting for the capacitors to arrive, I wound L1 to L6. It's really easy working with these large toroids and number 20 wire. I've found in this, and previous projects, that winding the toroids is one of the more enjoyable aspects of the project.

Just started on the KAT100-1

For this year's project, I've decided to build Elecraft's companion antenna tuner for the K2, the KAT100-1. The kit arrived by UPS a few days ago, and I did a complete inventory. The kit was missing the 7 150pF 2000V capacitors, but was otherwise complete. I wrote to the parts folks on Friday, got a nice email back almost immediately, and am expecting the parts to show up in a day or so.

	Here's the obligatory picture of the first installed part, C55. One thing that struck me, having built the KSB2 last year (have a look at my blog posting from just a year ago), is how roomy the KAT100-1 board is!
	Here's the main board populated with almost all of the capacitors. What's left are the 7 missing capacitors. I like to follow the build order pretty strictly, so I'm now waiting for the caps to come in the mail. In the meantime, I'll probably wind a few of the inductors in my next build session.

The large number of capacitors went in really quickly. The leads for all the caps, and their corresponding holes in the main board, all had the same spacing, so no bending/forming of leads was required; this was a welcome time and effort saver.

Almost done ...

I managed to get in some very good construction sessions in the past couple of days and have almost finished up stuffing parts into the KSB2 board. I thought I would post some pictures that folks might find useful.

	Here's a view of the bottom of the board; that's where all but one of the resistors are installed. The instructions for prepping the resistor leads and installing the parts were excellent. Overall, I'm finding the KSB2 build instructions to be about the best I've seen from Elecraft so far.
	Here's a close-up of the crystals, installed and grounded. Here again, the instructions for grounding the crystals were very good. I also referred back to my posting here on grounding the K2's crystals, which was still helpful.

All that remains to be installed on the KSB2 board are the two transformers and two RFCs; these are all wound and ready to go. Next following that is opening up the K2 and modifying the RF board to accept the new plug-in board.

Capacitors, Diodes, Resistor Networks

I've managed to put in a small number of hours over the past several days and the project is coming along, as usual, slowly but surely. I'm still checking each component's label and placement on the board two or three times before soldering, and then checking each soldered connection immediately.

Over the weekend, while waiting for the two missing parts to arrive (which they did in the morning USPS delivery on Monday), I wound T1 and T2, so they will be ready when I get there.

You can see in the picture that there were a large number of the small blue caps to be installed; fortunately, for all of them, I was able to follow the initial instruction, and didn't have to bend their leads at all.

Diode installation was no sweat. The instructions were very clear. The right side of the board is so crammed that several of the diodes were not labelled on the board at all, but were very clearly marked in the pictorial in the installation manual. The "check it twice" method caught the fact that I had initially put D4 in in the wrong direction; the cathode goes up, not to the right.

Here's what the KSB2 looks like so far. The right side is crowded. The holes for the cathodes of the two diodes at the extreme right side of the board are actually right at the edge of the board.

Transistors next ...